Monday, May 24, 2021

Recolorizing a Berkshire Valley Models Buggy Photo

Build a Berkshire Valley Buggy.  Take Photo of Buggy.  Decolorize Photo of Buggy.  Have AI Recolorize Photo of Buggy.

Artificial Intelligence is getting kind of smart.  I came across a site for colorizing old black and white photographs and I wondered how well it would colorize "old" photos of my layout:

Recolorized. I just finished building this Berkshire Valley Models Buggy in HO scale so I thought it would make a good subject for trying out AI colorizing.

Original Photo. This is the photo I took on the layout. It's interesting to compare it with the AI photo (top). Since I gave the ai a black & white photo (below) it had to guess the colors. It nailed the horse color. It assumed the street was concrete and colored it grey. I kind of like what it did with the brick color. It guessed the mans jacket was red rather than green. And really didn't do much with the yellows.

The black & white photo the ai had to work with. I took the original photo into Photoshop and took out the color and then uploaded the result to the MyHeritage site. And just like the old timey photo tinting studios from back in that day, it had to make educated guesses with the colors.
 
Interesting results. And I can assume this technology will only get better as time goes on.

Yes sir! The technology will only get better!

Dandy

Monday, May 10, 2021

Street Track and Overhead Cleaning Part 2 ~ Wet vs Dry

Cleaning the Overhead with a Conductive Contact Cleaner and Keep Alive Decoders to "Track in the Dirt and Track out the Clean".

In the last post I wrote about the tools and cleaners I've tried and the ones I'm actually using. This post I'll address how I'm using them to clean the hard to reach track and overhead.

Car № 107 got its decoder before the availability of KeepAlive decoders. So if the track isn't perfectly clean its lights will flicker.

Some years ago there was a lot a debate over "Wet vs Dry" track. Some of the cleaners (like DeoxIT) conduct electricity so why not just leave the track wet with the stuff? If the track get dirty the trains will still run. While others argue that dry, shiny track is the way to go. Personally I find that starting out wet and working my way towards dry works out best for me.

Attack plan. First of all, I start with a general cleaning of the easy to reach outside loops leaving the hard to reach intersection for last. I'll run a car on a loop and address any stalls or hesitation issues until the loop is running well. Then I'll move on the to next loop until they are all running well. Then its time to attack that intersection!

As you can imagine, the intersection is the last place I want to try to retrieve a stalled streetcar. That overhead wire is like a cage. So clean track and overhead is quite desirable there. Cleaning the track through the overhead with the Double Headed Cotton Swabs is straight forward enough. But that overhead! So to clean it I developed a "trick". Let the cars themselves clean the overhead:


This is where having cars with "Keep Alive" decoders come in handy. First I'll give the capacitors in the decoders time to charge up (~20mins) while they run around the outside loops. Then I'll place a drop of DeoxIT on the contact wire just before the intersection. Then throw the turnout to route the car into the intersection. The pole will collect the DeoxIT and spread it on the wires as it goes through the intersection. The "Keep Alive" will keep the car moving through the dirty overhead until it reaches the clean track of the next loop. Each time the car traverses the intersection the trolley pole collects dirt from the contact wire and then spreads it to the clean contact wire of the outside loops. All I do is keep cleaning the track and contact wire on the easy to reach outside loops. The cars track in the dirt to the outside loops and track out the clean into the intersection. And of course, I'll clean the cars wheels and poles from time to time.

Once the track and overhead is clean enough to run my cars that don't have the "Keep Alive" decoders well I'll begin the process of drying the track. Leaving the track and wires wet with DeoxIT will just collect a thick layer of gunk and when that dries its difficult to get it off. In the photo above, the upper rail is covered with some gunk that the cars tracked in from the intersection. While the lower rail has been polished dry. That dry, polished track and overhead throughout the layout is the ultimate goal.

San Diego Electric Railway wagon outfitted for overhead wire maintenance.
So to recap:

DeoxIT on double ended cotton swabs for a general cleaning of the track and overhead as well as the poles and wheels on the cars.

Let the cars track the DeoxIT around on the rails and overhead until the layout is running smooth.

Use the double ended cotton swabs to begin the process of drying and polishing of the track, overhead, poles and wheels.

The longer the layout runs for the cleaner it gets.


I've been using that method for years. So of course as soon as I write a major blogpost about it a "new" product comes along that's highly recommended. I'm going to give this NO-OX-ID "A Special" a trial and see how it compares to my usual method. If I find significant improvement with it I'll let you know.

Yes Sir! The cleaner it gets!

Dandy

Monday, April 26, 2021

Street Track and Overhead Cleaning Part 1 ~ What I'm Using.

The BEST way to keep track and overhead clean is to simply run your trains! But oftentimes we need a little extra help to get to that point first.

After spending years trying everything to clean track and overhead, I've seem to have finally settled into a pretty good technique.


As you can imagine, cleaning track under the overhead wires can be quite challenging. But clean track and overhead is imperative for smooth operation. So what to do?

I used to reach under the overhead with a Bright Boy track cleaning pad. But this has proven to be rather destructive, my elbow inevitably bumps a line pole somewhere, slightly bending it enough for the span wire to sag. Unsightly!  And with more and more delicate details being added to the layout, well, my big ol' clumsy paw is just too much. The city now has ordinances against such practice!

The Bright Boy is also too abrasive. It scrapes the paint from the streets revealing the bright white plaster underneath, ruining the realism of the scene. (If I had to do it over again, I would add a grey tint while mixing the paving material (Durham's Water Putty) so if it does chip, it would still have the street color). So at some point I'm going to need to do some touchup painting on the streets- with the overhead in place!

So- except for extreme situations, the Brightboy is out!


So what to do then? Well, one of the benefits of being a member of the Southern California Traction Club are members who have experience of such things.  John McWhirter for one has a great way of cleaning the clubs track and overhead which I have adopted for my own layout:

Double Headed Cotton Swabs. These are perfect for reaching through the overhead to clean the rails. The cotton heads are tightly wound so I'm able to scrub the track without them getting all fuzzed up like Q-Tips do.



Apply drops of the cleaning solution to the ends of the swab for cleaning rails and then apply drops to the sides of the swab to clean the contact wires.
The swabs fit nicely in the girder channel scrubbing the contact surface well.
Slide the side of the swab to clean the contact wire. I'll pinch the wire between my thumb and swab for extra tough spots.


I picked these up at a (now defunct) electronics store, but they are readily available on line. They come in packs of 100 for heap cheap.

For the cleaning solution, DeoxIT works very well for me and seems to be widely available.  Many model train manufacturers also offer track cleaning solutions. A nice property of these contact cleaners are that the solution conducts electricity!

Which brings us to- Wet VS Dry track and overhead. But I'm out of time right now so I'm going to end this here and tackle this subject and the cleaning process with the next post.

Yes sir! Wet VS Dry contact surfaces.

Dandy

Thursday, April 01, 2021

My Old San Diego Trolley Layout - Part 2

 Happy Fools Day Everyone! Let Us Celebrate this Day With Some More Legerdemain!

This is Part Faux of one of the most popular posts ever on this blog:  My Old San Diego Trolley Layout Part One.


So here are some more pictures of my old, too good to be true layout when I lived on Neverwas Street years ago:

4. Pulling in to the Transit Center.  Boy I went through a lot of red paint! Sorry about the crooked photo, its a little tilt shifted. Okay- its a lot tilt shifted!

The "layout" at a glance. Basically a double cross uh- double track loop with some sidings and a small yard with a car house. The numbered arrows correspond with the location of these photographs - more or less.

5. Yards and Car House. A lot of these models are 3d prints from Volkmar Meiers Shapeways shop. Isn't that right Volkmar?

6. Rounding Seaport Village station curve. Why I didn't just paint Seaport Village instead of this parking garage I'll never know. I'm a stickler for realism I guess! I don't know why I painted it right on the wall either!

7. Crossing Broadway past the Power House. Left turn at the bathroom and closet. And beyond credibility.


8. And as the last car zips along private right-of-way and disappears around the bend, we are reminded of this quote by Christian Nestell Bovee:

"No man is happy without a delusion of some kind. Delusions are as necessary to our happiness as realities".

Happy April Fools Day everyone!

Yes Sir! Happy Fools!

Monday, March 29, 2021

Turnouts Turnouting

 These were snap switches for so long that its actually nice to watch them throw in a more prototypical fashion:

This animated GIF is a large file, give it a moment to load

Yes sir! 

Nice to watch.

Dandy

Monday, March 15, 2021

Servoed

 Replacing all the old NJ International Snap Turnout Machines with Servos.


Lit! Turnouts installed and wired to the control panel.

    Last time I had just finished fabricating a disconnect cable between the layout and control panel. Next came installing this connector connection. This was much more difficult since each wire is a custom length between the connector and the servo. 



    Adding a disconnect cable between the layout and the control panel really created a lot of extra work for me. But I've gotten quite good at making a Lineman Splice!









The servos were mounted simply with a piece of Double Sided Mounting Tape. We'll see how that works out. If its a problem I'll use some sort of mounting bracket. 

    Spaghetti Bowl 2021. Servos only require 3 wires each for control and feedback compared to the NJ Internationals each needing 9 wires!  I thought the servos replacing the switch machines would clear up some of those wires, but those block occupancy detectors and street lamps have added quite a bit more wires.

    As each servo was installed and wired it was connected to the OctoIII for centering and alignment. I had to move the OctoIII from its original position since the plugs on some of the pushbuttons were resting on it.  But its still not right- its time to build yet another control center! 

I also added a steel ring as an anchor for the cable wires so should the cable get yanked it doesn't tear out the OctoIII.  I hope that doesn't happen, but should it, I hope it works!

I'm still fine tuning and working out some bugs with all this. But once that's done the turnouts will then be programed for DCC control. 

Yes Sir! Programed for DCC control!

Dandy

Monday, February 22, 2021

Control Panel ~ Cable Provider

 Constructing a Cable to Connect the Control Panel to the Layout.

A quick disconnect cable will allow the control panel to be removed from the layout to ease the transporting of the layout.


Recently I have installed the Octocoder and Singlet servo decoder and controllers to the control panel. Now I need to wire the controllers to the turnout servos on the layout. This is what this cable will be for.

This is the 37 pin twist-on cable connector that I'll be using for the cable. I'll only be using 24 of the pins for the turnout control. The remaining pins will be used for anything else on the layout that needs to connect to the control panel such as the on/off switch for the streetlights.

But first- I need to mount the connector to the layout. So I fabricated this wooden mount that will mount under the layout. The small part of the connector (center) fits into the hole in the mount and screws on. Wires from the servos (and anything else) connect to those pins. The larger part of the connector (right) twists on to it.

Now comes the fun part:
Soldering on the servo wires. But here's the problem. Whoever originally bought this connector installed the pins before the wires were soldered on (I got this connector second or third hand). So I have to solder the wires on in very tight quarters.

Dense. My first try I started with pin #1. But after the first row of wires were installed I wasn't able to access the second row. So I de-soldered the wires and started again. This time I started with the last pin and worked backwards. Which worked just fine. But keeping track of what wires are where is now a challenge!

Gold pins. According to the NASA tutorial I watched on soldering connector pins, the gold from the pins need to be removed first. Which I tried but failed at. But I'm not building a rocket ship- my layout isn't going to be exposed to the extreme conditions of avionics, so I decided to just leave the gold. A stripe of melted gold can be seen in the solder in the photo on the left. Hopefully this won't come back to bite me. If one of those wires detach from the center of the wire bundle there isn't room to solder it back on. Unless maybe I can fit my resistance soldering electrodes in there like this cool "old school" video demonstrates.




A Pin Designation Chart to help keep track of what wires go where. The turnouts are named (e.g. 1AR = 1st turnout, Block "A", Right turn) that coincide with their names with the Railroad & Co program. And where on the Octocoder the wires plug in to.:


And we got a cable! It's kind of messy, so....

Tucking the wires into this Split Wire Loom should make it all neat.

Much better. Let's plug it in...

Under the layout shot. Success- It's in there! But the cable is only half of it. Now comes wiring the receptacle. The servo wires will radiate out from here to the turnouts as they are installed. A lot of work that will never be seen. But it will be felt. Each trolley navigating its own route should be very cool to see.
Yes sir! 
Very cool to see.

Dandy

Monday, February 08, 2021

Electrolier Electrical Grounding Test

 Question: May AC and DC share a Ground?

Specifically, may the 3 volt DC from the LED lamps ground to the same post that is powering the 15 volt AC trolley trolley overhead?

These Electroliers were a lot of work to construct. I really don't want to blow out the bulbs. But they perform two duties. One, they are street lamps that illuminate. Second, they provide support to the overhead trolley wires. And that's where the AC+DC concern comes in. 

    There wasn't a concern when the layout was a DC layout. 3 volt DC and 15 volt DC grounding together is fine. But now that the layout is DCC, the overhead is AC.  So the DC LED's in the lamp are grounding to the AC pole.

So before I install the trolley span wires between the Electroliers, I'm going to perform a little test first to make sure this AC/DC mixture doesn't blow the LEDs:


Here is the set up:

1. Clamped a brass pole the the layout.
2. Installed the 3 volt DC circuit:
    a. Soldered the negative lead of a LED to the pole.
    b. The positive lead of LED with resistor is connected to a battery.
    c. The negative lead of the battery connected to the pole.
3 Installed the 15 volt AC circuit:
    a. Soldered a wire from DCC command station to the bottom of the pole.
    b. Soldered a wire from top of the pole to the overhead.
    c. Connected a return wire from the track to the command station.

    Then I powered everything up. The LED lit. A trolley was placed on the track. Turning its headlight on and off as well as starting and stopping the car seems to have had no effect on the brightness of the bulb. Which means both AC and DC was flowing through the brass pole with no visible effects to the LED. So I think we are all good for safely installing span wires between the Electroliers.

Yes sir! All good to safely install span wires!

Dandy





Monday, January 18, 2021

Boards a-Buckin'

 Constructing a Berkshire Valley Buckboard Kit

The demise of Jordan Highway Miniatures caught me completely be surprise. I needed those horse drawn vehicles and early vehicles to populate the busy streets of my multi-era layout! But it seems Berkshire Valley Models has stepped up to fill some of that void left by Jordan. So I thought I would give them a go by starting with their buckboard kit.

The Berkshire Valley Buckboard dodging trollies.

Their kits are laser cut wood with tiny parts. Bust out the Opti visor, this is going to require a steady hand!
Before construction started, I painted all the parts with a thin wash and dry brushing of craft acrylics (Folk Art and Americana). After construction a lot of touch up painting was required as well.

I also ordered and painted up one of Berkshire Valley's Harnessed Horses. A Preiser figure was added as the final touch.

Not bad!
Yes sir! 
Not bad at all!

Dandy