Birney Project ~ Installing the Decoder

"You've got too many damn lights in that thing!" George Huckaby.

I may have blown out all my lights, but the Southern California Traction Club has blown out entire decoders trying to get these things to work properly in trolleys running under live overhead! As a grateful benefactor of the trials and tribulations that the SCTC went through, I drew the following schematic based on the findings of the club (clicky to make biggy) :

This schematic illustrates how the TCS M1 decoder is to be wired in my model of SDERy Birney #301. The model has 10 (yes 10!) incandescent light bulbs in it, five of which would be lit at any one time (If I had to do it again, I would rather use LEDs in conjunction with fiber optics). The schematic also includes the necessary resistor that was so agonizingly missed the first time. I have the choice of having one 1 watt 100 ohm resistor* on the white wire and another on the yellow wire. Or one big 2 watt 100 ohm resistor* on the blue wire. Considering how big the resistors are (they are bigger than the decoder!) and how hot they get (and they get hot!), I decided to go with the one big resistor. BUT! That means not all the lights can be lit at the same time! Or else "poof"! Out go the lights yet again! That's a disaster waiting to happen, I'm going to have to be damn careful. Yes sir, Damn careful.
* Note: The value of the resistors were determined by some of the club members using wizardry and gadgetry that I'm not familiar with.
Bonus! Check out the March 2010 issue of Model Railroader for a resistor selector device on page 26.

First, the decoder is mounted to a piece of 3M 4011 Double-sided Mounting Tape, which in turn is mounted to the ceiling of the model.

Then comes the surgery. Two wires from 10 bulbs = 20 wires, plus 7 from the decoder, plus two from the motor, and two from the connector. Let's see, that's... 31 wires that all have to make specific connections with each other and the resistor, all in an itty bitty living space!

In this photo, we're looking through the cutout in the floor to the cutout in the subroof. I'm trying to keep the decoder (which also gets hot) as far away from the hot resistor as possible. So the decoder(right) is mounted to the roof through the subroof cutout. On the left side of the cutout I mounted a weight (simply for better running). The resistor (left) is glued half on the subroof and half on the weight. Hopefully this will help dissipate all that heat. There is officially no more room for anything else in this model!

Everything tucked up into the ceiling pretty nicely, preserving the seethroughableness of the car, even at this low angle. Good enough for me. Next stop will be the programing track to program the decoder. Then I'll officially take my place among the ranks of DCC-ers. Yes sir! I'm getting with the program!

Dandy

Birney Project ~ Going DCC

Taking the plunge into the world of Digital Command Control!

Having been a model railroader my whole life, its about time I made the switch from DC to DCC. Since my layout was designed for automatic operation, it was built with DC block control. But features with DCC have convinced me that this is the way to go. So starting with this Birney project, I'm making the switch.

For the Birney I've decided to use the M1 decoder from TCS (Train Control Systems). The M1 decoder is designed for N scale but fully capable of running H.O.

Programs are available now that allow you to run your layout from your laptop. One of these programs coupled with this decoder and I can have the automated layout as originally conceived.

How about that! For once I can have my cake and eat it to. Yes sir! I can have my cake and eat it too!

Dandy

Seasons Greetings!...

...and a happy strands of LEDs on sale for cheap for all your modeling lighting needs time of year!

I picked up a strand of 70 warm white LED's for like $5. That's less than 8 cents per LED!

Dandy

Tour the Southern California Traction Club

The SCTC displayed it's HO trolley modules setup at the NMRA L.A. Division meet at the South Coast Botanical Garden in Palos Verdes CA a couple weeks ago. This is my first show with the club. I pretty much spent the entire time video taping the layout in action, amassing about an hours worth of video. I was able to distill that video down to about 8 minutes for your viewing pleasure:



The Southern California Traction Club modules feature spectacular cityscapes, fully detailed scenes, long mainline running, multiple trolleys operating from live overhead, and a whole lot more. So sit back and enjoy the ride. Yes sir! Enjoy the ride!

Dandy

Niles Project ~ Headlight and Retrievers

Apparently, in the early days of trolleys, headlights were not standard equipment.

Since nighttime photographs were difficult and therefore rare, no photographs in my collection depict any of the Niles cars with headlights. For years I figured that either the cars didn't run at night, or they ran without headlights. But studying my collection closer reveals:

1. A bracket. And some wear and tear just above it. It could very well have been a headlight bracket and that it was often used.

2. A builders illustration including a headlight. It also depicts how the headlight sits low and rests on the front bumper (?).

3. Historical conformation of just such an arrangement. Pacific Electric 1001, which still exists today, sports a same sort headlamp. It fits onto a braket and you can see how a cord extends from it and has to be plugged in.

Precision Scale Co. Incandescent Headlamp For Interurban Cars #31004 seems to fit the bill quite nicely. The sprue on the back has to be cut off and then I filed the back for a good fit on the car. While I'm at it, I'll add the retriever fabricated from a 3/64" brass rod.

So now we are good to go with some night time running. Yes sir! We're good to go!

Dandy

Niles Project ~ Running Cost Tally

Model Railroading can get expensive. I'm going to try to keep a running tally of how much it costs me to rebuild these Niles cars. But don't blame me if I don't follow through with this. I mean, if I buy a 1 oz bottle of paint and use 50 drops of it, how do I tally that? The cost of the bottle? Or the cost of the amount used.

Suydam PE 414 & 1300 Niles Cars Rebuild Cost Tally

	#105 SD&SE combine	#107 SD&SE	#109 Point Loma RR	#110 Sightseeing
Original Car Purchase 1	$250.00	$250,00	$250.00	$250.00
Precision Scale Co. Incandescent Headlamp For Interurban Cars #31004	n/a	$3.50	$3.50	n/a
Total	$250.00	$253.50	$253.50	$250.00

Notes:

1. Today's (2009) going rate for these cars (some were purchased for more, some were purchased for less, but they averaged out to today's going rate).

Ka-ching! Ka-ching! Ka-ching! Yes sir! Ka-ching! Ka-ching! Ka-ching!

Dandy

Birney Project ~ Boom! Boom! Out go the lights!

Dammit! My worst fear has come to pass. I blew out all the light bulbs. F!

Deciding to take the plunge into the world of DCC, I managed to blow out all 10 light bulbs. I thought it was going to be a simple matter of replacing the Utah Pacific Constant Lighting Unit with a decoder. But no. Apparently a resistor is needed between the bulbs and decoder. The total rating of the bulbs have to be under 100 millowatts and how bright the lights shine depends on the resistor. The size resistor needed can be determined from the website of the manufacturer of the decoder, but not on the instructions that come with the decoder. I didn't know that so... pffft! Blown bulbs.

This disaster blew the wind out of my sails. I focused on other aspects of life for a while. Then, after a sufficient time of pouting, I'm back. Birney has been disassembled, blown bulbs ripped out, and new bulbs installed.

Sorry about the lack of posts for a while, but I'm back on track now. Yes sir! Back on track!

Dandy

Birney Project ~ Hold Down Hooks

Fabricating New Trolley Pole Hold Down Hooks For The Birney.

Trolley poles pointing downward is a bad thing. The hold down hooks are too short. So I'm going to fabricate some new hooks that are taller and more prototypically correct.

Using a cutoff disk on a Dremel, I cut off the old hooks.

Since the trolley poles are wired to the leads of the motor, the hooks need to conduct electricity from the brass body of the car to the pole. So I had to remove paint from where the hooks will be soldered to the car.

To fabricate the hold down hooks, I started with .010" x .030" brass bar stock folded in half.

Using a nail (I found a nail that was the same diameter of the old hook loop) I looped the brass around getting a nice curve by using pliers and a screwdriver to work the brass into shape.

Add a reverse curve in the brass so that the apex of the loop is in line with the main shaft of the hook. Solder only the loop, the reverse curve and part of the neck together.

Then bend the legs out and fold in the feet that will be soldered to the base. The hook assembly is now done.

Solder the hook assembly to the roof boards and trim the feet. Give it a tug to confirm a good connection. Now its time to paint the hooks and while I'm at it, I'm going to right a wrong...

Roof boards were never the same color as the roof. Roofs were usually of canvas or thin sheet metal, so you don't want to step on it or you'll fall right through or bend the heck out of it. So roof boards were installed so that workmen maintaining the cars could stand on the roof without damaging it. They were usually made of wood and were painted a contrasting color so the workmen could see where to step out of their peripheral vision. My hands are pretty steady, but not at this tiny scale. So I masked off around the boards.

Brushed on some Scalecoat Roof Brown on the boards and painted the hooks black. Some weathering will kill the shine on the boards.

Now that's more like it! The car looks much better and the horizontal poles are getting a much better electrical contact with the hooks now. Storing the car with poles on help keep the connection from oxidizing. Got to do everything you can to keep good electrical connections throughout if you want to keep them doggies rollin'. Yes sir! Keep them doggies rollin'!

Dandy