Observations Regarding the Window Functionality on the SDERy Class 5, 400 Series Cars.

Random open windows on streetcars make for a nice touch on models, and while studying the windows on the SDERy 400's I discovered something rather interesting about how they function. 

(and I mean "interesting" as far as windows functionality could be interesting).

On the builders photo I noticed that the 3rd, 6th, 7th, and 10th transom windows are either frosted or opaque. But that's not all...

...they appear to be the only transom windows that are able to open (by tilting in) on these cars.

 

The transom window arrangement is surprisingly evident on this congery of 400s out for a stroll on Broadway.

    Because these transom windows were able to be opened it appears that the regular windows below them were fixed in the closed position.

    This interior view of a 400 reveal that the transom windows in question (3rd, 6th, 7th, and 10th) have the pull shades mounted on the lower window while all the remaining windows have full length window shades that could cover both the transom and regular windows.

    Then it appears that sometime during the SDERy's transition to the green and cream color scheme (1931) , the transom windows became permanently closed and all the lower windows were able to slide up. In this photo the 3rd, 6th, 7th and 10th lower windows are all open. The open windows on the front of the car was typical with many streetcars of that era which allowed for a nice breeze to blow through while the car was in motion (an early form of "air conditioning").

    So armed with this knowledge of how the windows work on the 400's, I "opened" some windows on my model by filing away the lower sash and soldering in a new strip of brass higher up the window opening. I decided not to try modeling the tilted transom windows as it seems to be even more tedious than what I've already done. Though I might be able to represent it by simply bending back the clear styrene when it comes time to add the widow glaze after the car is painted. Otherwise, this window stuff is rather useless knowledge (am I, and now you, the only ones in the whole wide world to know this?).

Yes sir! Rather useless knowledge!

Dandy

Tarnation Supply Warehouse

Building a Good Ol' Fashioned DPM Style Model for an Upcoming Project.

A bit of a diversion, how good does it feel to build one of these type of models again! Its been years for me!

The idea is to butt two of these "Schultz Garage" by Woodland Scenics models together to build a larger building...

Like this! They went together easily enough... except where the cement overflowed and dissolved some of the brickwork on the nearest corner. No worries! I'll think of something to hide that. The back of the facades don't have any detail, so since I have some left over wall material...

Sweet! This beefs up the wall and adds some more detail to the building.

I want a good old fashioned red brick color for the building. A lot of guys are using Americana craft acrylics for these sort of projects, so I thought I would give it a try. I went to my local Micheal's crafts store to get a bottle of "Americana Heritage Brick", but of course they were out, so I got the next closest thing, "Rookwood Red" with "Fawn" as the trim color. It doesn't really matter what color I get anyway, weathering will alter these colors dramatically.

See? Just adding a mortar mix already changed the color quite a bit. For the mortar I just rubbed on some Durhams water putty tinted to a light grey into the cast-in mortar joints. The building looks quiet stark this way, so its going to need to be toned down.

I gave the building a weathering wash which really toned things down and really brought out the detail (including the melted brick smudge on the near corner!). Most folks use an India Ink / Alcohol mixture for this, but I prefer a Bragdons Weathering Powders / Alcohol mix. It gives me a more dusty and dry look that I like for my Southern California set buildings.

For the windows and doors I used the same "Fawn" trim color.

And they were cemented into place. I'm thinking of doing something different for the freight door, so I skipped it for now.

There is a popular technique among craftsman where paper signs are sanded tissue thin so when applied to the side of a brick building they look painted on. So I thought I would give it a try. Its pretty tough to do and when my sign finally ripped, I stopped and glued them on. But I think it was too soon, they still look kind of thick.

I have some doors left over, so I thought I would experiment and see if I can make one look partially open...

I carefully cut out an opening and then filed it smooth up to the door frame.

The new freight door was painted and installed.

 Then the doors and windows received the same weathering powder / alcohol mix that the bricks did. Look how it really brings out the details. But now with that open door, I'll need some interior detailing.

With the last of the leftover wall material, I cemented them together to make an interior office space. I hate to waste, so this makes me happy.

So easy and effective.

The roof was constructed as per the instructions, but with longer pieces of styrene. But I'm not entirely happy with the plain roof, I mean, what kind of roofing material is that supposed to be anyway? So...

 A scale 3' strips of 600 grit sandpaper was cut and glued to the roof to simulate tar paper.

The "tar paper" was weathered with the Bragdon Weathering Powders.

Also of note is how thick the windows and doors are. The model comes with clear styrene to fit behind them, but I think it will just highlight that thickness. So...

 I've experimented with using Micro Kristal Kleer for windows in the past and wasn't too impressed, But for an industrial building like this, I think it might just be perfect! And it fits IN the window openings, not behind them. Its messy work, so it was applied from the back of the windows.

Micro Kristal Klear goes on white, but will dry clear. Being IN the window frames, this should help the window frames look thinner.

And there ya go! I'll come up with something to hide the melted brick thing when this building is put into its scene. But until then, this has been a fun little diversion. Yes sir! A fun little diversion indeed!

Dandy

Niles Project ~ Windowed

Impressed with the qualities of the transparency paper, it was used for the remaining window glass.

I actually like the transparency paper better than clear styrene. It cuts better, the clarity is really nice, and it seems to stay cleaner.



Taking a picture of glass is actually kind of difficult. I posed this car and lights all different ways trying to get a glare on the glass. But I guess I got it good enough. I did manage to get the glass in the interior bulkheads to be visible as well if you look closely.

Finally, with the glass done, we can now get on with the wiring. Yes sir! Now get on with it!

Dandy

Niles Project ~ Corner Windows ~ Micro Kristal Klear

Well you folks really came through for me, thank you! A lot of ideas were presented, a few of which I'm going to give a try.

To recap, I'm trying to find a suitable solution for creating the "glass" for the rounded corner windows:

Australian traction modeler Bill Bolton comes through once again with the suggestion of trying Micro Kristal Klear. I've been using this stuff for gluing on clear styrene windows because it won't craze the plastic and it dries clear. But it also claims it can be used to make small windows itself. So since my bottle of Micro Kristal Klear is right here, why not give it a try?

Micro Kristal Klear is very similar to white glue, with some characteristics of rubber cement. I took a blob onto a toothpick and stretched it across the window opening. That was easier to do than I anticipated. Then I took a small screwdriver and scraped up the over slop. As you can see in the photo above, the "glass" is within the window frame. Not behind it as clear styrene would. Also, the "glass" the took on the almost 90 degree curve! But unfortunately that wouldn't last. Apparently it shrunk a bit as it dried and kind of straightened out:

And here is the result. Its not exactly "crystal clear" (which is probably why its named "Kristal Klear"), it is a bit cloudy, but not that much more than clear styrene. Also, since it is a liquid, the thickness is not consistent. So there is a bit of a "ripple glass" effect to the window. So Micro Kristal Klear is still a strong contender for use in the final model. But before I make a final decision, I'm going to try some of your other suggestions. Yes sir! Lets try some of those other suggestions!

Thanks Bill!

Dandy

Niles Project ~ How The Hecka?

I'm unable to get the clear styrene to conform to the curve of the corner windows in a satisfactory manner.

These Niles cars have these stylish curved corner windows. Curving almost a full 90 degrees. Quite a handsome feature if you ask me. If I can only get the glass (clear styrene) to curve that way too!

So I scoured the internets looking at all the nifty theories on bending styrene. I tried a bunch of them, finally building the above jig. How it works is, the styrene fits between the two pieces and then the whole shebang is put into the oven (I forget the temp). It kinda worked:

... but while that method might work fine for regular styrene, it caused the clear styrene to frost over. That might be fine for some folks, but you know me, everything has gotta to be overly realistic. I want to try for crystal clear.

So I'm asking for YOUR help, my dear readers. Below this post you'll find the "comment" button. If you have any ideas on how to fabricate and install curved window material, I sure would like to know. Please, click on that comment button and make you voice hoid! Yes sir! Make your voice heard!

Dandy

Birney Project ~ Window Glass II

Cutting, shaping, and installing widow glazing.

In part one of installing window glass, some of the brass sills were filed away so that I could model some of the windows open. Now that the car is detailed and painted, the "glass" can be installed.

Really the glass is .015 clear styrene. Cut to approximate size, I held it against the window openings and marked the location of the sills with a sharp blade.

Then I scribed in the location of the openings in the styrene (bottom), checked it against the model, and then cut out the openings (top).

A reader of this blog suggested using Micro Kristal Klear for gluing in the windows. Its a water soluble product, so it doesn't craze (fog) the plastic the way petroleum based glue would. I found this to be really easy to use.

Finally, strip styrene matching the dimensions of the brass window sills was painted the trim color, cut to size and glued into place.

And there we have it! The open windows add a lot of character and realism helping to make this car a real one-of-a-kind model. Yes sir! A real one-of-a-kind model!

Dandy