Servoed

 Replacing all the old NJ International Snap Turnout Machines with Servos.

Lit! Turnouts installed and wired to the control panel.

    Last time I had just finished fabricating a disconnect cable between the layout and control panel. Next came installing this connector connection. This was much more difficult since each wire is a custom length between the connector and the servo. 

    Adding a disconnect cable between the layout and the control panel really created a lot of extra work for me. But I've gotten quite good at making a Lineman Splice!

The servos were mounted simply with a piece of Double Sided Mounting Tape. We'll see how that works out. If its a problem I'll use some sort of mounting bracket. 

    Spaghetti Bowl 2021. Servos only require 3 wires each for control and feedback compared to the NJ Internationals each needing 9 wires!  I thought the servos replacing the switch machines would clear up some of those wires, but those block occupancy detectors and street lamps have added quite a bit more wires.

    As each servo was installed and wired it was connected to the OctoIII for centering and alignment. I had to move the OctoIII from its original position since the plugs on some of the pushbuttons were resting on it.  But its still not right- its time to build yet another control center! 

I also added a steel ring as an anchor for the cable wires so should the cable get yanked it doesn't tear out the OctoIII.  I hope that doesn't happen, but should it, I hope it works!

I'm still fine tuning and working out some bugs with all this. But once that's done the turnouts will then be programed for DCC control. 

Yes Sir! Programed for DCC control!

Dandy

Electrolier Electrical Grounding Test

 Question: May AC and DC share a Ground?

Specifically, may the 3 volt DC from the LED lamps ground to the same post that is powering the 15 volt AC trolley trolley overhead?

These Electroliers were a lot of work to construct. I really don't want to blow out the bulbs. But they perform two duties. One, they are street lamps that illuminate. Second, they provide support to the overhead trolley wires. And that's where the AC+DC concern comes in. 

    There wasn't a concern when the layout was a DC layout. 3 volt DC and 15 volt DC grounding together is fine. But now that the layout is DCC, the overhead is AC.  So the DC LED's in the lamp are grounding to the AC pole.

So before I install the trolley span wires between the Electroliers, I'm going to perform a little test first to make sure this AC/DC mixture doesn't blow the LEDs:

Here is the set up:

1. Clamped a brass pole the the layout.

2. Installed the 3 volt DC circuit:

    a. Soldered the negative lead of a LED to the pole.

    b. The positive lead of LED with resistor is connected to a battery.

    c. The negative lead of the battery connected to the pole.

3 Installed the 15 volt AC circuit:

    a. Soldered a wire from DCC command station to the bottom of the pole.

    b. Soldered a wire from top of the pole to the overhead.

    c. Connected a return wire from the track to the command station.

    Then I powered everything up. The LED lit. A trolley was placed on the track. Turning its headlight on and off as well as starting and stopping the car seems to have had no effect on the brightness of the bulb. Which means both AC and DC was flowing through the brass pole with no visible effects to the LED. So I think we are all good for safely installing span wires between the Electroliers.

Yes sir! All good to safely install span wires!

Dandy

DCC Turnout Control

 With the Success of Automating the Control of the Streetcars, I'm Moving Ahead with the Automation of Route Control.

This means replacing the old NJ International Twin Coil 'Snap' Switch Machines with Servos and Decoders.

Tam Valley's Singlet II Servo Decoder with Servo oughta do it.  I have 8 turnouts on the layout so to drive all these servos I will use...

    Tam Valley Depot Octopus with OctoCoder. The Octopus allows for the manual control of the turnouts while the Octocoder allows Loconet to communicate to the servos decoders which will make computer control of the turnouts possible.  I lucked out as one of these setups will power up to 8 Singlets. 

Control panel with controllers installed. It's not lit up yet since I haven't installed the servo's yet.

    The instructions state that its best for the input wires to be short and the servo wires to be long. So I installed the Octopus inside the control panel next to the servo controllers.

    Under the layout, DCC turnout control will simplify this wiring substantially when I replace the twin-coil switch machines (four of which are visible in this shot) with servos. Each servo will have just 3 wires compared to the 7 required for each of these machines! The capacitor on the lower left will also be eliminated. The cable left of center is DCC from the command station to the overhead trolley wires and BDL168s block occupancy detectors. A couple of wires from this will go back to the Octocoder allowing for Loconet communication with the turnouts. The twin cables in the center was the turnout wiring to the old DC control panel. These will be replaced by a removable cable from the new control panel for the servo wires.

    The control panel is built to be removeable so that the layout can be more easily moved. So a connector is needed for the cable from the control panel to the servos. John McWhirter was generous enough to gift me this one (Thanks John!). Wires from the Octopus will connect to the large end of this. The small end is attached under the layout and wires from the servos will connect to it.

Alright- I've got a lot of dewiring and new wiring to do. So lets fire up the soldering iron and get to it!

Yes sir! Get to it!

Dandy

Boulevard of Electric Dreams

Finally!  All 12 Electroliers are placed and wired.

After pouring a new rubber mold I concentrated on casting the remaining lamps once and for all.

Electrolier combination streetlamp/trolley line poles stand sentry on Grand Ave.

This whole scene is lit entirely by the Electroliers.

The remaining 8 Electroliers freshly cast and receiving their silver paint.

    For power supply I ordered this regulated 3 volt 2 amp transformer from Evan Designs. Its regulated so as to prevent voltage surges blowing out the LEDs (the LEDs are cast into the lamp, there is no changing them out!). The output voltage is exactly 3 volts and the 2 amps mean I can power up to 100 LEDs. That should be enough power for the streetlamps on all the streets. It also included a wired socket that I mounted underneath the layout for the power supply to plug into.

 

    All that remains to do now is install the span wires between the Electroliers to support the trolley wires. But the fact that the 3 volt dc lamps and 13.8 volts ac DCC both ground to the poles is of great concern for me. It would have worked fine when track power was DC. But since I switched to DCC which is AC, I'm not so sure. The last thing I want is a Boulevard of Broken Bulbs! So i'm going to rig up a test lamp/pole situation to try it out first so as to try to preserve this Boulevard of Electric Dreams.

Yes sir! This Boulevard of Electric Dreams!

Dandy

BDL168's ~The Robots Are Taking Over Our Jobs!

 Transitioning the Layout to Automated Operation.

    There doesn't seem to be any definitive how-to's when it comes to automating a layout. So I'm just going to figure it out as I go.

The first logical step seems to be Block Occupancy Detection. So let's start with that.

     A couple of Digitrax BDL168 LocoNet Occupancy Detectors should work for this.  Fortunately the track on the layout is already divided into electrical blocks from its DC cab control days. Later the blocks were "tied together" electrically when the layout was converted to DCC. Now I will "untie" the blocks electrically so that each block could then be wired individually to the BDL168's.

The control panel  illustrates the location of the 32 detected blocks. Each block is labeled with a city block letter and sequence number. One BDL168 will detect 16 blocks, so two are required for this layout (How's that for a perfect fit!). The intersection itself is its own block and does not need to be detected.

Rather than trying to wire the BDL168 while it's mounted under the layout, I temporarily mounted its 44 pin connector to a spare piece of plywood and wired it right there on the workbench. The other end of the wires are connected to terminal strips where the wires from the electrical blocks will be connected.

The wires had to be pre-tinned and then hammered into the shape of the holes they slide into.

Looking up underneath the layout (tap to enlarge photo). The 44 pin connector is mounted on the underside of the tabletop and the terminal strips are mounted to a joist with wires from the blocks routing in to the bottom row. The black and white wires on the far right are 14vDC (Digitrax PS14) power supply. The green wire in the center of all those wires is "ground" from the command station and the black wire next to it is the LocoNet connection.  The BDL168 (green circuit board) is plugged in to the connector. LocoNet cables plug in at the far left, one to the command station and the other to the second BDL168. The rainbow ribbon cable is for RX4 Transponder detectors, which it turns out, are unnecessary since the computer keeps track of what cars are where, and, the decoders I'm using don't transpond! But I digress...

So I fired up the layout, some lights flashed on the BDL168's, and I ran some cars around as if nothing had changed. Which is good. It means power is going from the command station, through the BDL168's to all the blocks. But are the BDL168"s detecting? I won't know that until a computer interface is established so a computer program can read the LocoNet information.

So the next logical step seems to be establishing a computer interface with the layout.

Yes sir! Establish a computer interface!

Dandy

New Auxiliary Control Panel

A Quick and Dirty Control Panel for the New DCC Turnout Controls.

The old DC NJ International Turnout Machines are being replaced by Tam Valley Depot Singlet DCC Decoder and Servo Drivers. So as a result a new control panel is required for the Fascia Decoders.

Control Panels are way easier to make these days with a computer and printer compared to the old mask and paint method.

This new panel is drawn with the free vector graphics program Inkscape. This time I included labeling for the electrical isolated blocks as well as a letter designation for each of the four city blocks.

The drawing was then printed out and glued to 1/8" Masonite Board. And then drilled to accommodate the Servo Decoders. Done! Easy peasy. Well... except now comes the wiring!

This new auxiliary panel provides a manual way to control the turnouts since primary control of the layout will be controlled by the computer. But I know computers, and my experience with computers has taught me that a manual alternative would be a wise thing. Yes sir! A wise alternative!

Dandy

Track ~ Electrically Isolated Blocks

DC Block Control, Eliminated, and then Revived...

Gaps in the rails.  Originally designed for DC Block Control, DCC eliminated the need for these electrically isolated track blocks.

Power bus. A bare wire is run under the layout following the cloverleaf pattern of the track above to tie all the block wiring together.

Block Detection for Automation. Putting those old blocks to good use, they can be used to give feedback to loconet for use in running the layout automatically or semi-automatically.

Yes Sir! Running the layout automatically!

Dandy

TCS Keep Alive DCC Decoders

Installing A DCC Decoder In A Poor Running Model Yields Surprising Results!

One of the advantages touted by DCC proponents is that it improves the performance of motors. So I decided to add a TCS Keep Alive Decoder to my poorest running model to see how it fares:

A Huntington Standard by Oriental Models.

It features a crappy open-frame motor and all brass gears ( usually alternating brass gears with plastic gears produce much better performance).

And wouldn't you know it, I was able to get decent performance out of it. In this short video I was able to run the car around the block with some realism:

Yes sir! Decent performance!

Dandy

Digi for the Trax

Santa Baby Was Good To Me!

Digitrax DCS 51

It's official, the layout has gone digital. Though DC was fun, playing keep-away by only using the turnouts...:

...but it's time to start implementing realistic operation. So DCC it is!

To make a quick connect/disconnect between the command station and layout I purchased these XLR Connectors. They seem able to handle any maximum amperage the command station should dish out.

Under the layout shot. The female XLR Connector was mounted to a small project box and then wired to the layout. The male in-line XLR Connector was wired to a 16awg 3 conductor cord (positive, negative, neutral) which is wired to the Command Station.

.We are now DCC ready. Yes sir! DCC ready!

Dandy

To Trolley Pole Reverse Or Not To Trolley Pole Reverse.

That is the question.

Exploring the two methods of wiring a trolley. The "cool" method or the more practical method.

(NOTE: This post was written when when the layouts were wired for standard DC (Direct Current). But with the advent of DCC (Digital Command Control) Trolley Pole Reverse is no longer an issue. Cars are wired for "Trolley Pole Forward" as shown below. -Dandy 2020)

The question we get the most when the Southern California Traction Club displays its modules is "are the trolleys getting their power from the wires?". Not only are the guests pleased when we inform them that indeed they are, but we will also do a little demonstration of "Trolley Pole Reverse" that guests take a delight in. It doesn't take long for a trolley to come by. So I'll put my finger lightly under the overhead wire so that as the car comes by, the pole will disengage the wire and the car will roll to a stop. I'll stow that pole under the hold down hook and explain that "one pole is wired to one pole of the motor, and the other pole is wired to the other pole of the motor". Lifting the opposite pole to the wire, the car jumps to life and continues on its way ~ in the opposite direction. Guests are thoroughly impressed.

But lately we at the club have been discussing reliability. As all model railroaders know, the toughest electrical continuity to maintain is the contact between rail and wheel. The slightest obstruction will cause a stall. Stalls are no fun. With traction modeling not only is that problem made double with the tiny contact between the trolley shoe and overhead wire but triple so with the just as critical contact between the stowed pole and the hold down hook.

When a car stalls, its usually the tiny connection between the trolley shoe and overhead that's been compromised. A gentle tap of the overhead is usually enough to reengage to shoe to the wire. If that doesn't work then its probably the wheels, nudging the car forward a tad should fix that. If that doesn't work then a wiggle to the front pole might invigorate that contact. If that doesn't work... well, you get the idea. It gets a little frustrating. So eliminating weak spots like these just makes things run a little smoother. But eliminating the contact between the rails and overhead isn't feasible. But that connection between pole and hold down hook can be addressed.

With Trolley Pole Reverse, one trolley pole is wired to one pole of the motor while the other trolley pole is wired to the other pole of the motor. Whichever pole is in contact with the overhead will supply the positive charge to the motor. The other pole is in contact with the hold down hook completing the circuit by providing ground. This method requires good spring tension to press the pole up against the hold down hook and a clean connection between the pole and hold down hook. A little contact cleaner fluid is helpful here as well.

Though I've never heard it called this, I'm calling this method "Trolley Pole Forward", as opposed to Trolley Pole Reverse. This method eliminates the contact between the pole and hold down hook, providing a bit more reliable operation. This is particularly useful in a DCC environment where a car can be reversed without reversing the polarity of the rails and overhead. We simply tell the decoder to run the car the other way.

I think it all comes down to preference. On a point to point operation, Trolley Pole Reverse might work best. For a "roundy roundy" operation, Trolley Pole Forward might be preferred. On a DC layout, I think Reverse could be the way to go. On a DCC layout, Forward could be it. I don't know. But I think once my layout gets rolling, time will tell which I prefer. Yes sir! Time will tell!

Dandy

(Edit- Time has told! Yes- on a DC layout, "Reverse" is a good way to go. On a DCC layout "Forward" is the way to go. -Dandy 2020.)

Niles Project ~ Brainz

The TCS M4 Decoder

The TCS M1 decoder is doing an outstanding job on the Birney car. So naturally I would use it with the Niles. But I have all those interior lights whose total milliamps exceed the limits of the interior lighting function of the M1. So...

It was determined that with the M4 (four function) decoder, the interior lights can be split between two functions. That way, the total milliamps of half the lights are within the limits of one of the functions. And the total milliamps of the other half are within the second function. So the M4 is what I ordered. And the M4 is what I got. I named it "Abby someone... Abby Normal".

So come on up to the lab and see what's on the slab. Then we'll install its braaaaainz. Yes sir! Install its brrraaaainz!

Dandy

Birney Project ~ Installing the Decoder

"You've got too many damn lights in that thing!" George Huckaby.

I may have blown out all my lights, but the Southern California Traction Club has blown out entire decoders trying to get these things to work properly in trolleys running under live overhead! As a grateful benefactor of the trials and tribulations that the SCTC went through, I drew the following schematic based on the findings of the club (clicky to make biggy) :

This schematic illustrates how the TCS M1 decoder is to be wired in my model of SDERy Birney #301. The model has 10 (yes 10!) incandescent light bulbs in it, five of which would be lit at any one time (If I had to do it again, I would rather use LEDs in conjunction with fiber optics). The schematic also includes the necessary resistor that was so agonizingly missed the first time. I have the choice of having one 1 watt 100 ohm resistor* on the white wire and another on the yellow wire. Or one big 2 watt 100 ohm resistor* on the blue wire. Considering how big the resistors are (they are bigger than the decoder!) and how hot they get (and they get hot!), I decided to go with the one big resistor. BUT! That means not all the lights can be lit at the same time! Or else "poof"! Out go the lights yet again! That's a disaster waiting to happen, I'm going to have to be damn careful. Yes sir, Damn careful.
* Note: The value of the resistors were determined by some of the club members using wizardry and gadgetry that I'm not familiar with.
Bonus! Check out the March 2010 issue of Model Railroader for a resistor selector device on page 26.

First, the decoder is mounted to a piece of 3M 4011 Double-sided Mounting Tape, which in turn is mounted to the ceiling of the model.

Then comes the surgery. Two wires from 10 bulbs = 20 wires, plus 7 from the decoder, plus two from the motor, and two from the connector. Let's see, that's... 31 wires that all have to make specific connections with each other and the resistor, all in an itty bitty living space!

In this photo, we're looking through the cutout in the floor to the cutout in the subroof. I'm trying to keep the decoder (which also gets hot) as far away from the hot resistor as possible. So the decoder(right) is mounted to the roof through the subroof cutout. On the left side of the cutout I mounted a weight (simply for better running). The resistor (left) is glued half on the subroof and half on the weight. Hopefully this will help dissipate all that heat. There is officially no more room for anything else in this model!

Everything tucked up into the ceiling pretty nicely, preserving the seethroughableness of the car, even at this low angle. Good enough for me. Next stop will be the programing track to program the decoder. Then I'll officially take my place among the ranks of DCC-ers. Yes sir! I'm getting with the program!

Dandy